ABS Fairing Repair: Fix Cracks, Tabs and Missing Pieces

You’re backing your bike out of the garage. The side stand catches on an uneven paver. Before you know it, crack. There’s a split running through your fairing and your stomach drops. First thought: how much is this going to cost me?

Here’s the good news: you can repair ABS motorcycle fairings at home for under $40. A new OEM panel from the dealer runs $300-600. A full aftermarket kit is $489-875. But if the damage is a crack, a broken tab, or a small missing piece, you don’t need to replace anything. You need PlastiFix and about two hours of your time.

At GoMotoTrip, we’ve been molding ABS fairings since 2007. We know ABS inside and out. We know how it breaks, how it bonds, and exactly how to fix it. This guide walks you through how to repair ABS motorcycle fairings for three common types of damage: cracks, broken tabs, and missing pieces.

Before you spend money on repair supplies, make sure repair is the right call:

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is the plastic used in motorcycle fairings, car bumpers, and even LEGO bricks. It’s chosen because it’s:

• Impact-resistant: It flexes instead of shattering on impact.
• Thermoplastic: It can be chemically melted and re-bonded — which is why PlastiFix works. The liquid component partially dissolves the ABS surface, creating a weld rather than just a glue joint.
• Paintable: Once repaired and sanded, ABS takes primer and paint just like the original surface.

This is the key difference between ABS repair and generic plastic repair: PlastiFix chemically bonds to ABS, not just sits on top. A generic epoxy or super glue will crack off within weeks because it’s only a surface bond. PlastiFix melts into the ABS and becomes part of the panel.

Our recommendation: PlastiFix. We’ve tested it on hundreds of ABS panels in our factory. It’s the only repair compound we trust for structural repairs that last. The two-part system (liquid melts the ABS surface, powder fills and builds) creates a bond that’s often stronger than the original plastic.

• PlastiFix kit (or similar ABS repair kit)
• Fine-grit sandpaper (400, 800, 1000 grit)
• Soap and water (for cleaning)
• Clean cloths
• Nitrile gloves
• Spatula or small spreader
• Fiberglass drywall mesh tape (for large cracks and missing pieces)
• ABS-compatible primer and paint (for finishing)
• Work in a well-ventilated area, as the liquid component has strong fumes

This is the most common fairing damage. A crack from a tip-over, a stress fracture near a mounting point, or a hairline split from vibration. Here’s how to fix it so it doesn’t come back.

1. Clean the area. Wash the fairing with soap and water, then wipe with a clean cloth. Any oil, wax, or dirt will prevent bonding.
2. Sand the crack. Use 400-grit sandpaper to rough up the area around the crack, about 1/2 inch on each side. The PlastiFix needs a textured surface to grip.
3. V-groove the crack. Use a Dremel or the corner of your sandpaper to create a slight V-shaped groove along the crack line. This gives the PlastiFix more surface area to bond to.
4. Apply from the back side first. If you can access the inside of the fairing, apply PlastiFix there first. This creates a backing that prevents the repair from pushing through.
5. Apply to the front. Mix PlastiFix per instructions. Add powder to liquid until you get a paste. Apply along the crack with a spatula, pressing it into the V-groove.
6. Let cure. Allow 2-4 hours for full cure (check your kit’s instructions). Don’t rush this. If you sand too early, the repair will crumble.
7. Sand smooth. Start with 400 grit to level the repair, then 800 and 1000 for a smooth finish. Wipe clean between grits.
8. Prime and paint. If the repair is visible, apply ABS-compatible primer, then color-matched paint. For a full paint guide, see our step-by-step painting tutorial.

Here’s the reference video:

Broken tabs are the most frustrating fairing damage because a single broken tab means the panel won’t stay flush. Here’s the fix:

1. Clean and sand the broken area as described above.
2. Build a form. Use a piece of cardboard or plastic wrapped in wax paper as a backing behind where the tab used to be. Tape it in place.
3. Apply fiberglass mesh. Cut a small piece of drywall mesh tape and lay it across the gap. This acts as reinforcement. The PlastiFix will bond through it.
4. Apply PlastiFix. Build up the powder-and-liquid mixture on the mesh, shaping it roughly to match the tab profile. Don’t worry about making it perfect. You’ll sand it later.
5. Drill the mounting hole. Once fully cured (4+ hours), drill a new hole where the bolt goes through, matching the original size.
6. Sand to shape. Use sandpaper to refine the tab shape until the bolt fits cleanly.

Here’s the reference video:

A chunk missing from the edge of your fairing? Here’s how to rebuild it:

1. Create a backing. Tape wax paper or cardboard to the back of the missing area to create a form.
2. Apply mesh. Lay fiberglass mesh across the gap and onto the surrounding fairing by at least 1/2 inch on each side.
3. Build up with PlastiFix. Apply in layers. Start with a thin layer onto the mesh, let it partially set (10-15 minutes), then add more. Building in layers prevents sagging.
4. Over-build slightly. Make the repair slightly thicker than the surrounding fairing. It’s easier to sand down than to add more later.
5. Shape and sand. Once fully cured, use 400-grit sandpaper to shape the repair to match the original contour. Progress to 800 and 1000 grit for smoothness.
6. Prime and paint. As with cracks, finish with ABS primer and color-matched paint.

Here’s the reference video:

Yes. ABS is one of the most repairable plastics. Because it’s a thermoplastic, products like PlastiFix chemically melt into the ABS surface, creating a structural weld rather than just a surface glue joint. Small cracks, broken tabs, and missing pieces up to 1-2 inches can all be repaired at home for under $40 in materials.

DIY: $30-40 for a PlastiFix kit. Professional: $100-300 per panel at a body shop. Replacement: $300-600 for one OEM panel, or $489-875 for a complete aftermarket kit with custom paint. DIY repair is the obvious choice for small-to-medium damage.

PlastiFix is the gold standard. It’s a two-part system: a liquid that melts into the ABS surface, and a powder that builds structure. The resulting bond is often stronger than the original plastic. Plastex is a comparable alternative at a slightly lower price. Avoid generic epoxy or super glue. They’ll crack off within weeks because they don’t chemically bond to ABS.

Repair if: the damage is a crack under 6 inches, a broken tab, or a small missing piece. Replace if: the panel is shattered into 3+ pieces, has damage larger than your fist, or is made of recycled ABS (common in cheap eBay kits) which doesn’t bond well. If you have 3+ damaged panels, a full aftermarket kit from GoMotoTrip costs about the same as repairing all of them professionally.

For the repair itself, no. PlastiFix cures to a beige color, which is functional even if visible. But for aesthetics: yes, you’ll want to sand smooth, prime with ABS-compatible primer, and paint to match. See our complete painting guide for step-by-step instructions.

If the damage is small, such as a crack, a broken tab, or a small missing piece. Grab a PlastiFix kit and fix it this weekend. It’s $30 and two hours of satisfying work.

If the damage is extensive, such as shattered panels, multiple cracks, or the fairing is cheap recycled ABS that won’t bond, browse our aftermarket fairing kits. Virgin ABS, OEM-molded, free custom paint, free shipping. Often cheaper than replacing 2-3 OEM panels individually.